Wednesday, July 17, 2013

Ireland: Days 3&4 and Coming Home


We spent the morning exploring Dublin on foot. The tourist part of the city is not big at all, so it’s easy to see on foot in very little time. Our first stop was Trinity College, to see the famous Book of Kells—an illuminated Gospel hand-written and –drawn in Ireland around 800—and the Trinity College Library. 

The Book of Kells has unbelievably intricate illustrations, featuring the biblical figures and decorated letters typical of illuminated religious texts, but with lots of Celtic touches like intricate knots. Some of the images are so finely detailed that the academics in charge think they must have had some kind of magnification device, but we don’t know what they would have used since they didn’t have lenses back then. We think.
 
An illumnated page from the book. This is about 18 inches by 12 inches.
 
Same page, zoomed in. Look how complicated!! (Both museum pictures)

The Old Library, built in 1592, is the kind of beautiful high-ceilinged wooden room that most bookworms see in their dreams. It functions as the Library of Congress for Ireland, and also as a repository and curating facility for old and valuable books. They had a number of very cool displays about the importance and process of book preservation. I have to admit, it made me want to change degrees…I think it’s a little too late.

 
Heaven.

We also went to the National Museum of Ireland, which was full of the incredible treasures people have found buried or hidden in bushes over the years. Ireland has been occupied by humans since about 8000 BC (more than 10,000 years ago!), so a lot of this stuff redefines ancient. Caches—collections of ancient objects found or dug up by normal people—range from well-preserved tools, cauldrons, and even mummified people pulled from peat bogs to enormous finds of prehistoric gold jewelry and coins.

 
I want to move there and just dig holes all the time (official museum picture).

Again, the museum featured Celtic knot-type artwork done by monks, but this time it was metal- or enamelwork on religious artifacts or jewelry. If the Book of Kells made scholars think they must have had magnification, this stuff is even more intricate. Half the time, we didn’t even realize the level of detail until we looked at the enormously magnified images of the objects displayed next to them. Apparently, it was a work of devotion and a monk would spend his entire life decorating one crucifix. The results are unbelievable.

Cross of Cong
This doesn't do it justice. I need infinite zoom or something (official museum picture).

After checking out the rest of Dublin’s highlights and grabbing some lunch, we got on the highway and drove all the way across Ireland to the west coast city of Galway. Again our hostel was amazing, and again we headed out to do some sightseeing before dark, when we had dinner at a pub and explored the High Street area. Galway is more industrial than Dublin, and we really enjoyed being right on the water.
 
 Galway! (not my picture)

The next morning we finished our sightseeing and drove north along the coast to the airport in Knock. We didn’t have time to drive the outermost coastal road so we took the inland scenic route, which was probably the most beautiful part of a very very beautiful country. We were all alone on narrow roads driving through sheep fields (fun fact: in the spring, farmers tie bags of colored chalk to the chests of the rams, and they can tell which ewes should be pregnant over the winter by the chalk transferred onto their backs! Lots of red-backed sheep out there…), mountains—including the one St. Patrick delivered a famous sermon from—and really wonderful dark and windswept lakes. If I ever decide that I have to go somewhere to be meditative or something, this is where I’m going!
Seriously, this whole country is too beautiful to be real. Not my picture, thanks google!

We flew back to England, spent one night and flew back home to Switzerland and California respectively. It was an awesome trip, and I’m so glad I got to see my sister! When I got home, Martin and I spent the weekend hiking near Liechtenstein and watching his brother be awesome at beach volleyball.

This one actually is my picture! Alpine hut in Switzerland near Liechtenstein.

All of Liechtenstein is in this picture. It's everything on the far side of the river, up to the ridge of the far mountain. On the right, it's until the river meets the mountain. On the left it's a little harder to see. The near side of the river is Switzerland, and the far left of the picture is Austria.

 Martin on the trail!
View down the other side (into Appenzellerland) from the summit! It's good to be home :)
 
Love Katie

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